If that blows the breaker with nothing else connected to the panel wires then you either have a problem with the new outlet or the panel wires are shorted together. In your example of converting one or more receptacles within multiple half switched receptacles the process would include disconnecting from the receptacles the wire controlled by the switch, and replacing the connection with a lead wire … Is this possible? Nothing you do with the white wires will do anything to provide power to the upper half of that outlet - it requires a black wire. How can this be done? In … Answer: Assuming you mean outlets that include a USB port or two along with the normal two outlets, it would depend on the manufacturer. It seems that the requirement was satisfied by making each outlet have both circuits, which I've never seen done but is quite possible, but as long as both circuits are available you will still have the power required. This is very useful in reading areas and studies where you want easy access to turn on accent lighting (lamp) without reaching for it all the time. Answer: It sounds like the entire outlet is switched, but with a red wire there I would suspect that there is a black wire somewhere back in the box, likely feeding other outlets. One possibility is that it is going outside, and maybe to something that isn't there. That new power source can then be used to operate the new switch and light fixture. Can I do so by simply buying a new receptacle, and not breaking the brass tab? The problem is that a GFCI monitors the current on the neutral and hot wires; when they are unbalanced it will trip. Do the same with all the black wires (and the additional 6" piece of black wire you cut in step 2). If there is you can check to verify that it is hot all the time and that it is on the same circuit (turn the breaker off and see if both it and the red go dead). It's a half and half with the top half controlled by a switch. I am fine with having the entire GFI outlet switched off/on as needed. This gives you four different colored wires to splice in with the matching wires in the box. I am installing a ceiling fan in the room and want the top plug to be hot at all times and use the switch only for the ceiling fan. In order for the outlet box to work, it must already contain one or more cables made up of black, white, and green/bare ground wires all cabled together. One outlet was a half hot. When you wire the new outlet only hook up the "hot" wire to the outlet, not the switched wire. He has extensive experience in most areas of the electrical trade. The worst that could happen is that it immediately blows the breaker or, if something really strange is going on, put 240 volts into the outlet somehow. Both terminals are seeing voltage all the time. A power check will also tell you if power is making it to the switch. Also in box were white (wirenutted) & black (also wirenutted), but no green. I attached the black wire to the black (lower) screw and a red wire above that, then the second red wire on the opposite side. Basically, the light switch will now be used to power new lights and at the same time power the receptacle that will always be hot. I happen to be switching out the colors on one of the sides so I might as well make them all the same. Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on November 01, 2017: Yes, you can tie them together with the hot feed but it will disable the switch and both will be hot all the time. Connect that pigtailed wire to the top lug on the opposite side of the outlet as pictured there--assuming you cut the connector bars. The yellow is connected to the 3way (I think on the right side) & then it exits the box. Regarding the voltage difference, when I mentioned I checked the voltage in an outlet, note that it wasn't the switched outlet but another outlet in same room. I have a single switch that controls the lower part of 2 separate outlets. You already have a dishwasher and disposal on the circuit; adding a coffee pot or other high current appliance and trying to operate all three at the same time could easily overload the circuit. If you add an outlet to a kitchen or bath, it must be GFCI protected. If that is the case, pick the diagram that is most like the scenario you are in and see if you can wire your outlet. How to Wire a Switch-Controlled Electrical Outlet. Home Depot Coupons, Coupon Codes, 10% Off Sales – FALL/WINTER 2020-2021, AJ Madison Coupons, Sales, Coupon Codes, 40+% Off – FALL/WINTER 2020-2021, Lowes Coupons, Sales, Coupon Codes, 10% Off, Target Coupons, Sales, Coupon Codes, 10%-60% Off – FALL/WINTER 2020-2021, Sears Coupons, Sales, Coupon Codes, 10% Off – FALL 2020/WINTER 2021. Please advise if you need any additional information or have any questions. dan i have an outside receptacle that when i check the hot side it is on the right side or black wire but when i add even a night lght both sides of the receptacle indicate hot ,replaced the receptacle no change . You can switch the entire outlet, but it may result in tripping the GFCI occasionally. Not sure what to since since I don’t have the screws to reference the hot side and I don’t have the red wire. Answer: If the outlet is already switched, but the tab is not broken, it means that both halves are switched. Too many times a homeowner will use the uninsulated ground wire as a neutral to accomplish what they want, and the result is an ungrounded circuit where there should never be one. 2. - you would need two whites, two blacks and two reds on each outlet but the last one. If necessary, remove all the wires but one, check the outlet for power, and then use a different wire. Either way it should be marked, usually by wrapping it with black tape, to indicate it is hot. Thank you for all your help. Tools And Supplies To Wire A Switched Outlet • Wire strippers • A hammer (for new work) • A drywall saw (for old work) • Regular and Phillips head screwdrivers • Romex cable: 14-2 for lighting circuits, 12-2 for tools or appliances • An outlet! I have not installed the second outlet yet. You need a green ground, a white neutral and TWO hot wires; one switched and one not. A half-hot (or switched) outlet is a double outlet that has one half permanently on (ready to provide electricity) while the other half can be turned on and off via an ordinary wall switch. Everything you need is thus there to operate a switch and lights. I would carefully double check all work done for loose connections. The wires connected to the switch are white (with black tape), black, and green. But it also had a smaller gauge white and black wires each stuck directly into the back of the outlet. I have 12 gauge wires (red,black,white, green), and I'm running my red wire from a timer in my garage going out to the back yard with 3 half hot outlets.